Home surf is where the hassle is
:: Words & cell photo by Reviewer Rob ::
I surfed Windansea Saturday for the first time with the red stick. This was also my first time in maybe 25 years out at Windansea on anything shorter than an 8-2. I was working, going to Pacific Beach to flyer, and happened to drive by during a set. It looked clean and the wind was northy sideshore/slightly offshore. It looked really lined up, the rights were peeling, ruler-edged, good tapering peaks. So I immediately decided to ditch work. I parked, changed into my surf trunks, unbagged my board and trotted down to the shorebreak. After paddling out the waves were inconsistent. Plus it was crazy crowded — which I knew beforehand — with about 40 guys sitting on the peak barking at each other and charging it whenever a set of two or three waves would come in every 15 minutes. Then there was the inside section with another crowd haggling over the scraps. I was out for about an hour, and caught four waves. Even though I didn’t get much surf I consider it a success because two of the waves were overhead. One was a set wave where I took off on the peak, and the drop was steep. I didn’t know it but some guy had taken off behind the peak and went right as well, and then some girl took off in front of me on the shoulder on a longboard, and at one point we were all bunched up at the bottom doing our bottom turns and bumping rails. It was annoying but kinda funny too. Then I was paddling back out and on the next wave I was inside a little bit and an overhead Insider wall some guy wasn’t able to paddle into came and he pulled back right before it got to me so I turned around as it was standing up and took off and it was a super steep drop. As I was getting to the bottom about to come on to the flats and do my turn the wave dumped on me and blew me off my board. Underwater now I open my eyes and see the world of green and how I was so close to the reef I could touch it, big black rocks all around me. Hello, Windansea. It’s nice to be back.